How to Fix a Leaky Faucet (Step by Step) (2026 Guide)

Quick answer: To fix a leaky faucet, shut off the water at the valves under the sink, plug the drain so parts cannot fall in, then take the handle apart to reach the worn part. A dripping spout usually means a bad washer, seat, or cartridge; a leak at the handle usually means a worn O-ring. Replace the part, grease it, reassemble, and turn the water on slowly. For tricky faucets, find a local plumber free on Qiggz.

A faucet that drips all night is more than annoying. It wastes water, stains the sink, and the steady tick can drive you up the wall. The reassuring part is that most faucet leaks come down to a small, cheap rubber or plastic part that has worn out, and replacing it is one of the more approachable plumbing repairs a homeowner can take on.

The catch is that "faucet" covers four different mechanisms inside, and the fix depends on which one you have. This guide shows you how to shut off the water safely, figure out your faucet type, and replace the part that is leaking, plus the point where it makes more sense to hand the job to a plumber.

Before you start: take a photo with your phone at each stage as you take the faucet apart. Parts come off in a specific order and go back the same way, and the photos make reassembly far easier. Bring the old worn part to the hardware store so you buy an exact match.

Tools and materials

• Adjustable wrench and, if needed, a small crescent wrench
• Screwdrivers (flathead and Phillips)
• Needle-nose pliers
• An Allen (hex) key set, for handles held by a set screw
• A utility knife, to lift off old O-rings
• Replacement parts for your faucet: washers, O-rings, seats, springs, or a cartridge
• Nontoxic, heat-proof plumber's grease
• A rag or sink stopper to cover the drain
• White vinegar and a soft pad, for cleaning mineral buildup

First, know your faucet type

There are four common faucet designs, and knowing yours tells you what to replace.

• Compression faucet. Common in older homes. It has two separate handles, one for hot and one for cold, that you tighten down to shut off. These rely on rubber washers, which wear out, so they are the most likely type to drip.
• Cartridge faucet. Has a single cartridge insert that moves to control flow. It can have one or two handles. You fix it by swapping the whole cartridge or its O-rings.
• Ceramic disk faucet. Uses two ceramic disks inside a cylinder. Durable and long-lasting; you usually fix it by cleaning or replacing the neoprene seals.
• Ball faucet. A single handle that swivels over a rounded cap, common on kitchen sinks. It has several small parts (springs, seats, a cam), so a manufacturer repair kit is the simplest way to fix one.

Where the leak shows up is a clue, too. A drip from the spout usually points to a worn washer, seat, or cartridge. A leak around the base of the handle usually points to a worn O-ring.

How to fix a leaky faucet, step by step

Step 1: Shut off the water and plug the drain

Look under the sink for the two shutoff valves, one for hot and one for cold, and turn them clockwise to close them. If there are no under-sink valves, shut off your home's main water supply. Open the faucet to release pressure and confirm the water is off. Then lay a rag over the drain or set the stopper, so a dropped screw cannot disappear down it. This Old House notes you should avoid over-tightening old valves when you close them, so they do not get damaged.

Step 2: Remove the handle

Most handles hide their screw under a small decorative cap on top. Gently pry the cap off with a flathead screwdriver or utility knife to expose the screw, then remove the screw and lift the handle off. Some single-handle faucets use a hidden set screw at the base or back instead, which an Allen key loosens. Set the parts aside in the order they came off.

Step 3: Get to the worn part

What you do next depends on your faucet type.

• Compression: use a wrench to loosen the packing nut, then unscrew the stem from the faucet body. The washer is at the bottom of the stem.
• Cartridge: pull off any retaining clip with needle-nose pliers, then pull the cartridge straight up and out.
• Ceramic disk: remove the escutcheon cap and the cylinder mounting screws, then lift out the cylinder to reach the neoprene seals.
• Ball: this is where a manufacturer repair kit earns its keep, because it includes the springs, seats, cam, and the tool to swap them in the right order.

Step 4: Replace the worn part

Replace whatever is worn with an exact match. For a compression faucet, swap the seat washer at the bottom of the stem, noting whether the old one is flat or beveled so you buy the same shape. For any type, if the leak was at the handle, replace the O-ring: lift the old one off with a utility knife and slide on the new one. If the valve seat the washer presses against is pitted, it can be smoothed with an emery cloth or replaced. On a ceramic disk faucet, clean any mineral buildup in the cylinder openings with white vinegar and a soft pad before reassembling.

Step 5: Grease the new parts

Coat the new washers and O-rings with a thin film of nontoxic, heat-proof plumber's grease before reassembly. It helps them seal, move smoothly, and last longer. Use plumber's grease specifically; ordinary household lubricants can degrade rubber parts.

Step 6: Reassemble and test slowly

Put the faucet back together in the reverse order you took it apart, using your photos as a guide, and avoid over-tightening the screws and nuts. Then turn the shutoff valves back on slowly. Opening the water gradually matters, especially on a ceramic disk faucet, where a sudden surge of pressure can fracture the disk. Run the faucet for a minute or two, watch the spout and the handle base, and confirm the drip is gone.

Safety and what to watch out for

This is a low-risk repair compared with most plumbing, but a few cautions matter. Always confirm the water is fully off before you open the faucet, since opening one still under pressure can spray you and flood the cabinet, and keep a towel and bucket handy for the water still sitting in the lines. Do not force stuck parts: corroded or mineral-locked stems and nuts can snap, so penetrating oil and patience beat brute force. Avoid over-tightening on reassembly, which can crack parts, strip threads, and cause new leaks. Match every replacement part exactly, because a washer or cartridge that is close but not identical will leak. And if you find corroded pipes, a valve that will not close, or water pooling inside the cabinet from somewhere other than the faucet, stop and call a plumber rather than risk a bigger leak.

When to call a pro

Swapping a washer or cartridge is well within reach for many homeowners. Other signs tell you the smarter move is a licensed plumber.

• The shutoff valve will not close, or there is no valve. If you cannot isolate the water, or the valve itself leaks, that is a plumbing job in its own right.
• The leak is not actually at the faucet. Water under the sink can come from the supply lines, the drain trap, or the valves, not the faucet. If a new washer does not stop it, the source is elsewhere.
• Parts are corroded or seized. Badly corroded stems, packing nuts, or pipes can snap and turn a small repair into an emergency. A pro has the tools and replacement parts on hand.
• You have replaced the part and it still drips. A persistent leak after a correct repair can mean a damaged faucet body or valve seat that needs professional attention or a full faucet replacement.
• You would simply rather not. There is no shame in it. A plumber can fix a faucet quickly and guarantee the work.

With Qiggz, you describe the job and your location, and you get matched with local plumbers. There are no lead fees and no commissions, so the pros you talk to are not paying to reach you, and you keep the full relationship.

The bottom line

A leaky faucet is usually a worn rubber or plastic part, not a major repair. Shut off the water, plug the drain, identify your faucet type, and replace the washer, O-ring, seat, or cartridge that is leaking. Grease the new parts, reassemble in reverse, and turn the water back on slowly to test. Most of the time, that stops the drip for good.

When the valve will not shut off, the leak turns out to be in the pipes, parts are corroded, or the drip survives a correct repair, it is time for a pro. Post your job free on Qiggz to get matched with a local plumber, with no lead fees and no markups, so the only thing you pay for is the work.

Frequently asked questions

Sources

• This Old House, "How To Fix a Leaky Faucet With Easy to Follow Steps" (shut off the water at the under-sink valves without over-tightening old pipes; cover the drain so parts are not lost; the four faucet types compression, cartridge, ceramic disk, and ball; removing the handle and replacing washers, O-rings, seats, springs, and cartridges; coating parts with nontoxic heat-proof plumber's grease; turning the water back on slowly to avoid fracturing a ceramic disk; and when to call a professional): thisoldhouse.com.
• American Home Shield, "How to Fix a Leaky Faucet Based on Type" (matching the repair to compression, cartridge, ceramic disk, and ball faucets; spout drip vs handle leak as a diagnostic clue): ahs.com.
• Qiggz "free to post, no lead fees, no commissions, local-matched pros": first-party (Qiggz product), see /about/qiggz.