Quick answer: Use sanded grout for joints that are 1/8 inch wide or larger, such as most floors, because the sand resists shrinkage and cracking and holds up to wear. Use unsanded grout for narrow joints under 1/8 inch and on smooth vertical tile. Sanded grout can scratch soft, polished surfaces like marble, so unsanded is safer there. Tackling a bigger tile job? Find a local pro free on Qiggz.
Picking the wrong grout is one of those small tiling mistakes that shows up later as cracked joints or scratched stone. The good news is that the choice is not complicated once you know the rule, and that rule comes down to one measurement: how wide your grout joints are. There is a second factor too, which is what your tile is made of, because some delicate, polished surfaces do not get along with the grit in sanded grout.
This guide explains what each type is, compares them side by side, and tells you exactly which to reach for based on your joint width and your tile. We also flag when a tile project is worth handing to a pro.
What is sanded grout?
Sanded grout is a cement-based grout with fine sand mixed in as an aggregate. That sand is not filler; it does a job. As Fine Homebuilding explains, sanded grout "contains an aggregate of silica sand for strength" and "resists cracks from shrinkage." When grout cures, water leaves the mix and the material wants to shrink, and in a wide joint the sand braces the grout and keeps it from cracking or pulling away from the tile.
That shrink resistance is why sanded grout is the standard choice for floors and other wide-joint, high-traffic surfaces. The trade-off is texture: the same grit that adds strength can act like fine sandpaper against soft or polished materials.
What is unsanded grout?
Unsanded grout is cement-based grout without the sand aggregate. It has a smooth, sticky consistency that clings well to vertical surfaces, which is why it is common on wall tile. According to Fine Homebuilding, unsanded grout is "preferred for joints that are less than 1/8 in. wide" and is "a good choice for highly polished stone such as marble."
The catch is shrinkage. With no sand to hold its volume, unsanded grout shrinks more as it cures. In a narrow joint that is fine, but in a wide joint that extra shrinkage can lead to cracks, pinholes, or sunken grout lines. That is the core reason joint width decides the call.
Sanded vs unsanded grout: side-by-side comparison
| Factor | Sanded grout | Unsanded grout |
|---|---|---|
| Composition | Cement plus silica sand aggregate | Cement, no sand |
| Best joint width | 1/8 inch and wider | Narrower than 1/8 inch |
| Shrink and crack resistance | Higher; sand resists shrinkage cracks | Lower; shrinks more as it cures |
| Texture | Gritty | Smooth |
| Best surfaces | Floors, patios, high-traffic areas, wider joints | Wall tile, narrow joints, smooth vertical surfaces |
| Risk on soft, polished stone | Can scratch marble, granite, limestone | Safer; a good choice for polished stone |
| Problem if misused | Hard to pack into thin joints; can leave pinholes | Can crack or sink in wide joints |
| Common tile uses | Floor tile, larger format tile, mosaics on floors | Glass, metal, polished stone, wall tile |
Use this as a quick reference, then confirm the right product against your specific tile and the grout manufacturer's instructions, since some modern formulas have their own joint-width ranges.
Which should you choose?
Run two checks in order and the answer falls out almost every time.
First, measure your joint width. This is the primary rule. For cementitious grout, joints of 1/8 inch and wider should get sanded grout, and joints narrower than 1/8 inch should get unsanded grout. The reason is shrinkage: in a wide joint, unsanded grout shrinks too much and can crack, while in a narrow joint, sanded grout is hard to pack in and can leave pinholes. Fine Homebuilding sums it up by calling the 1/8-inch mark "the critical dividing point between the two types."
Second, check what your tile is made of. This can override the width rule. If your tile is a soft or highly polished surface, such as marble, polished granite, or limestone, the grit in sanded grout can scratch it. Fine Homebuilding warns that sanded grout "may scratch the tile" on polished stone and recommends unsanded as "a good choice for highly polished stone such as marble." For delicate, glossy, or natural stone surfaces, lean toward unsanded, or ask about an epoxy or specialty grout rated for that material.
Putting it together: wide floor joints with porcelain or ceramic tile point clearly to sanded grout, and narrow joints on a polished marble wall point clearly to unsanded. When the two checks disagree, for example a wider joint on a delicate polished stone, that is a good moment to ask a tile pro which grout, or which specialty product, protects your tile.
A note on cost
Standard sanded and unsanded cement grouts are inexpensive compared with the tile itself, and the price difference between the two is small. The bigger cost question usually involves specialty grouts. Epoxy grout, for instance, is more durable and stain-resistant and is sometimes recommended for premium tile, but it costs noticeably more. Rubi notes that epoxy-based grout can run "over twice" the price of traditional grout.
We are not going to print a square-foot price here, because grout cost depends on the product line, the size of your job, and your area. As a rough reference, Angi puts a 10-pound bag of sanded grout at about $5 to $30 and a 10-pound bag of unsanded grout at about $10 to $35. On the specialty side, the epoxy premium is the figure to watch: Rubi notes epoxy grout can run over twice the price of traditional grout. Prices vary by region, materials, and scope. For a real number on a full tile job, including labor, post the project free on Qiggz and compare local quotes.
When to hire a pro
Regrouting a small backsplash or a few cracked lines is a reasonable do-it-yourself task. Larger or more delicate jobs are where a professional earns their fee, both in the finished look and in protecting expensive tile. Consider hiring a pro when:
- You are tiling a whole floor, shower, or large wall. Big installations are unforgiving. Even joint width, full coverage, and clean lines across a large area take skill, and mistakes are expensive to redo.
- You are working with delicate or pricey tile. Marble, polished stone, glass, and natural stone scratch and stain easily. A pro knows which grout protects the material and how to apply it without marring the surface.
- You are unsure which grout your tile needs. If your joint width and tile type point in different directions, a tile professional can recommend the right standard or specialty grout.
- Old grout is failing widely. Cracking or crumbling grout across a floor or shower can signal a movement or moisture issue underneath. A pro can find the cause rather than just covering it.
A handyman handles many regrouting and small tile repairs, while larger installs may call for a dedicated tile setter. Either way, Qiggz makes it simple to compare local help. Post your project to get matched or browse a local handyman. Posting is free, and Qiggz charges no lead fees and takes no commission, so the pros you talk to are not paying to reach you.
The bottom line
Choosing grout is mostly a matter of measuring. Use sanded grout for joints 1/8 inch and wider, where its silica sand resists shrinkage and stands up to traffic. Use unsanded grout for narrow joints and smooth vertical tile, and reach for it on soft, polished stone like marble, where sanded grout could scratch the surface. Measure first, check your tile second, and follow the product instructions.
For a small regrout you can often handle it yourself. For a full floor, a shower, or delicate tile, get it done right. Find a local tile pro or handyman free on Qiggz, with no lead fees and no commissions.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between sanded and unsanded grout?
Sanded grout is cement grout with fine silica sand mixed in, which adds strength and resists shrinkage cracks in wider joints. Unsanded grout has no sand, giving it a smooth, sticky texture that clings to vertical surfaces and suits narrow joints. The practical dividing line is joint width: sanded for 1/8 inch and wider, unsanded for narrower joints.
When should I use sanded grout?
Use sanded grout for joints that are 1/8 inch wide or larger, which covers most floors, patios, and high-traffic surfaces. The sand resists shrinkage and cracking and stands up to wear. Avoid using sanded grout in joints narrower than 1/8 inch, where it is hard to pack in and can leave pinholes, and avoid it on soft, polished stone that it could scratch.
When should I use unsanded grout?
Use unsanded grout for joints narrower than 1/8 inch and for smooth vertical tile such as a wall or backsplash, where its sticky texture clings well. It is also the safer pick for soft, highly polished surfaces like marble, since it will not scratch them. Do not use unsanded grout in wide joints, because it shrinks more and can crack.
Will sanded grout scratch my tile?
It can, on delicate surfaces. The grit in sanded grout can act like fine sandpaper and scratch soft or highly polished materials such as marble, polished granite, and limestone. For those tiles, use unsanded grout, or ask about an epoxy or specialty grout rated for delicate stone. On porcelain, ceramic, and most floor tile, sanded grout is fine.
Is epoxy grout better than sanded or unsanded grout?
Epoxy grout is more durable and more resistant to stains and scratches than standard cement grout, which makes it appealing for premium or delicate tile. The trade-off is cost and difficulty: Rubi notes epoxy grout can cost "over twice" the price of traditional grout, and it is harder to work with. For many everyday installations, standard sanded or unsanded cement grout is perfectly adequate.
Sources
- Fine Homebuilding, "What's the Difference: Sanded vs. Unsanded Grout" (unsanded "preferred for joints that are less than 1/8 in. wide"; sanded "best choice for tile joints wider than 1/8 in."; sanded "contains an aggregate of silica sand for strength" and "resists cracks from shrinkage"; sanded "may scratch the tile" on polished stone; unsanded "a good choice for highly polished stone such as marble"; 1/8 inch is "the critical dividing point"): finehomebuilding.com/project-guides/tiling/whats-the-difference-sanded-vs-unsanded.
- Rubi, "Sanded vs. Unsanded Grout" (joint width thresholds, sand aggregate and durability, sanded can damage marble, granite, and limestone, pinholing in thin joints, epoxy grout costs "over twice" traditional grout): rubi.com/us/blog/sanded-vs-unsanded-grout.
- Angi, "Sanded vs. Unsanded Grout" (a 10-pound bag of sanded grout about $5 to $30, a 10-pound bag of unsanded grout about $10 to $35): angi.com. Grout pricing varies by brand, product line, and region, so confirm with a current retail price or a local quote on a full job.
- Qiggz "free to post, no lead fees, no commissions, local-matched pros": first-party (Qiggz product), see /find-pros and /about/qiggz.
